Posted by: DanHC Do you think the two USB 3.0 port at the right has anything to do with the TB controller? Or are they wired to another PCI-Bus? The two USB 3.0 ports (which include two USB 2.0 ports) belong to the PCH USB 3.1 xHCI Host Controller - the same one that controls the four USB 2.0 ports of the Thunderbolt ports. Otherwise they are unrelated to the TB controller. Each Titan Ridge Controller has a USB 3.1 xHCI Host Controller built in that controls the two USB 3.1 gen 2 ports of their two Thunderbolt ports (four total USB 3.1 gen 2/Thunderbolt ports). Posted by: anethema Like try a prime95 small fft load.
Instant throttle? What about realbench?
And ya undervolting and manual fan control would be awesome to see. I should be able to try Prime95 out later today, once I'm done with work and I'll post results then. I kept CAM running last night, averages did seem to hover in the mid-70s most of the time, but still hitting 80s for some sections. The 95+ spikes always happen during loading sections it seems. Though I'm comfortable building my own PCs, it seems like the Mini is a hassle to take apart (classic Apple.) so I don't think I'd go as far as re-pasting - at this point at least. I'm going to try under volting with Intel's XTU later tonight (haven't really used Throttlestop much but I can try that out at some point too) and see if that helps at all. I still think there's room for improvement on the software side of things, fans really don't seem to go crazy at all, nor does the top of the Mini feel way too hot after load but it's still a bit early to tell.
I certainly agree that it's not a good idea to be running the system at sustained 80C+ regularly. When I boot into Mac OS with my eGPU on, I get no signal at all to the monitor connected to it. Looking at System Info, Mac OS 'sees' my Razer connected, but does not see the Nvidia card at all, I'm guessing there are simply no drivers/support for it. The way I have things set up now is: - Mac Mini HDMI directly to my monitor's HDMI input, switch to this when booting Mac OS. eGPU/1080 Displayport connected to the same monitor's Displayport, switch to this when booting back into Windows (or after sign in - signal up to that point goes to the built in HDMI instead). Thankfully, the AW3418 (and most DELL monitors AFAIK) allow you to set two buttons to 'quick' toggles, so switching back and forth between HDMI and Displayport is quite painless in this setup.
I just went to an Apple store, dropped my hand on the mac mini 2018, it was doing nothing and the case was already warm, dissipating the heat. The demo product was not running anything aside the screen and price tag info from this morning i suppose. So usually when a product is warm doing nothing, even if build with low noise output in mind, it is not a good sign. Good luck with cpu/vrm thermals and or low TDP lock.
Edit Note: The thrash can version of the macbook was even worst, already hot doing literally nothing. Thanks you a lot for the tear down, i already leveraged it. As always i would like the logic board, the cpu seems to get a somehow decent 6 phases vrm and the ram a 1 phases vrm power delivery. Not sure tho how many of these 6 phases are really dedicated to the cpu cores, some must be used to power the iGPU and some need to power the I/O system agent. The heatskink does not seems appropriate for the job, when cooling high cores count cpu is needed. Also the cpu get soaked by the vrm heat, the vrm are not actively cooled but still i liked the pcb design, it pay at least some attention to provide the vrm some passive pcb cooling.
Just be sure to ask Apple to set the TDP in a way that even with lower performances output, it should be consistent. Like avoid to get the cpu constantly hitting the max TDP, often cpu clocks jumping back and forth bring some lag, especially when gaming. The only test i would suggest is to remove the bottom cap if heating too much, when computing intensive workloads. Check if it help a bit the case airflow and general case thermals, but it will not help keeping the dust out of the case. The airflow intake come from the bottom of the case and exit from the back of the unit, passing through the cpu fins stack.
Re the CPU thermal throttling issue, assuming there are no software/firmware solutions, what do you guys think of using some kind of external cooling unit, such as? It's a laptop cooling pad but could presumably be used for something like a mini as well - it's basically a fan built into a metal grill, which presumably acts as another heat sink. All you'd have to do is pop the lid open of the mac mini and place it on it. I realise it's not ideal or elegant, but it's a small compromise I'm willing to make if it works. Hoping we can steer the conversation back to the discussion of the Thunderbolt 3 controllers and the hypothetical use of an egpu with Thunderbolt displays such as the LG ultrafine.
It seems like it's been confirmed that there are multiple thunderbolt controllers in the new mac mini, does this mean that one can use an egpu in the setup discussed earlier: thunderbolt 3 connected to the egpu, and then another thunderbolt 3 from the mac mini to the lg ultrafine? Perhaps I misunderstood the previous discussion, but do we have any more clarity if this setup is possible without performance loss (because of the multiple thunderbolt controllers)? Any clarity on this would be great.
It's not good news on the thermal throttling unfortunately. The Prime95 small FFTs test results in insta-throttling, temps average around the mid 80s (up from 50s idling) and hit 90s often enough.
Intel XTU doesn't really support the 8700B, it can't be under volted by it (I should have considered that, it's not a K series CPU) and currently I haven't been able to get ThrottleStop to run at all (complains about missing DLLs, I'll need to troubleshoot it since I haven't used it before). Finally, SpeedFan is also not usable, since it doesn't detect a single system fan and offers no control over them. I'm going to try out 's idea of keeping the Mini on its' side for some time, so it can vent air better and see what kind of effect that may have but if I had to guess, without additional cooling, I think that'll only make a few degrees difference at best. I think a separate thread might make sense for those interested, better than cluttering up this thread IMO. Yeah, some external cooling would probably help though I don't think I'd go down that path personally, the Mini's form factor/clean lines are a big part of its' charm for me:).
FWIW, I didn't get the Mini with gaming in mind, I already had the eGPU and needed a new Mac primarily. Though it certainly would have been a dream setup to have everything working well (and gaming is smooth from my early testing but things get hot), I'm fine with using a separate ITX desktop as my gaming rig. However, I'll keep testing things and answering any questions I can for others like that are trying to make a purchasing decision based on the Mini's gaming performance in Windows. There's also still hope that Apple may address this via a firmware update, just like the MBP update. We'll have to wait and see I guess.
Tried one last thing for tonight - just to get an idea of 'real life' use again vs a benchmark like Prime95: played through around 90 minutes of the Division tonight, the Mini was raised standing on its' side the entire time to see if that improves airflow at all. Seems like it had no real impact TBH, temps still hovered at mid 80s mostly, more or less the same as my last few tests, with the Mini sitting on my desk 'normally'. It also seems that the CPU is at 4.2Ghz on average in game, with around a 50% utilization on the first core. Posted by: johnjkle Tried one last thing for tonight - just to get an idea of 'real life' use again vs a benchmark like Prime95: played through around 90 minutes of the Division tonight, the Mini was raised standing on its' side the entire time to see if that improves airflow at all. Seems like it had no real impact TBH, temps still hovered at mid 80s mostly, more or less the same as my last few tests, with the Mini sitting on my desk 'normally'. It also seems that the CPU is at 4.2Ghz on average in game, with around a 50% utilization on the first core.
Closeout Cpu Cooling Fans Fit For Macbook Pro
Posted by: johnjkle Tried one last thing for tonight - just to get an idea of 'real life' use again vs a benchmark like Prime95: played through around 90 minutes of the Division tonight, the Mini was raised standing on its' side the entire time to see if that improves airflow at all. Seems like it had no real impact TBH, temps still hovered at mid 80s mostly, more or less the same as my last few tests, with the Mini sitting on my desk 'normally'. It also seems that the CPU is at 4.2Ghz on average in game, with around a 50% utilization on the first core. I think that's a good sign, in the consideration that you did the gaming without eGPU right? So the graphic is on the iGPU - UHD 630, which is packaged with the CPU and share the same cooling. When the iGPU is disabled or not in use, there is less heat to be cooled by the same cooling. Intel UHD Graphics 630 has a TDP of 15W, making it around 23% of the TDP of the i7 8700B chip, which has a 65W TDP.
That’s a good point, hopefully can be retested with the eGPU connected. Would be interested to see the cpu temps then. Thanks you for the testing, i would have hoped that letting some more air in would help the cooling capabilities. Can you try also without the bottom cover, if you get the chance?
Also you are right, if there is no other active cooling that would push some fresh air to the other part of the case, where the vrm, ram, psu are located, there would not be so much improvement. The air intake come from the bottom being forced directly through the cpu heatsink by the blower and exiting from the rear. Since there is almost no airflow on the part of the pcb where the ram and vrm are placed, the logic broad end up heating more than it should. Thats's why got a nice idea, with the laptop cooling unit blowing air inside the whole case would maybe improve thermals as whole. I was hoping that applying better thermal paste and leaving the bottom cover off would at least improve a bit the cpu T°. Also note that for how cpu works, you maybe noticed no change in t°, because the cpu would have boosted higher clocks, providing better performances.
That's why i advised to ask Apple a decent TDP that allow the cpu to run without being bound by the t° too much, due to the form factor and cooling. This is the possible vrm configuration, i found it quite strange, not sure if correct.
Tho the cpu cores recieve only 3 phases or at max 4 phases, powered by 3/4 SIC621 60A power stages. The ram and one of the VCCSA/IO power delivery seems to be different than the one used for the main cpu.
I did not checked closely the pcb and components that drive this vrm, but on overall one can't expect asking too much from it. The cpu and system are powerful enough to deliver good performances even being quite limited, the real feat is to find the right thermal balance to get it work flawlessly when using it as eGPU solution. Edit: Provided better vrm pictures, i did not noticed the other 2 power stages, used i suppose for the TBT/USB power delivery. Posted by: johnjkle Tried one last thing for tonight - just to get an idea of 'real life' use again vs a benchmark like Prime95: played through around 90 minutes of the Division tonight, the Mini was raised standing on its' side the entire time to see if that improves airflow at all. Seems like it had no real impact TBH, temps still hovered at mid 80s mostly, more or less the same as my last few tests, with the Mini sitting on my desk 'normally'. It also seems that the CPU is at 4.2Ghz on average in game, with around a 50% utilization on the first core. You are right, usually it's what it happen.
But usually one does not hit the 100° TJMAX of the cpu. With 100° on the cpu and surrounding i would hope the fan is spinning at it's max value. I would not care about noise knowing my logic board is being toasted and let blow the fan at 100% in this case. If the overall implementation can't take it up, a simple TDP adjust is needed to suit the cooling and avoid the cpu hitting TJMAX or TDP. Java runtime environment 1.5.0 download.
A cpu should never go over 80/85° full load, otherwise it will toast itself, the surrounding pcb components and the pcb. Posted by: DanHC I think that's a good sign, in the consideration that you did the gaming without eGPU right? So the graphic is on the iGPU - UHD 630, which is packaged with the CPU and share the same cooling. When the iGPU is disabled or not in use, there is less heat to be cooled by the same cooling. Intel UHD Graphics 630 has a TDP of 15W, making it around 23% of the TDP of the i7 8700B chip, which has a 65W TDP., - all my testing is with the eGPU connected.
If you look back at my first post in this thread, the Intel 630 no longer even shows up in Windows at all, when I have the eGPU connected, the only GFX present and enabled is the GTX 1080 (in fact, the 630 vanishes from Device Manager and is not even listed as an Unknown Device). yeah, I'll try with the lid off over the weekend and on its' side, don't have any extra fans/desktop fans to try active cooling externally right now. The temps hit averages of 85C so the CPU stays around that mark most of the time, while hitting 90s momentarily too. Doesn't seem like re-pasting does much either, as I can see from 's detailed tear down, he already re-pasted with quality paste too and still sees throttling on his i5. The only thing that still seems off to me is that I'm pretty sure the CPU fan is not at full blast during these gaming sessions (or even Prime95) - I've noticed it audibly spin up louder during things like driver installations for example. But I still don't have a way to control or even monitor the fan speed, neither SpeedFan, nor CAM 'see' the fans at all.
Hope you have better luck than I have so far. My Radeon card is currently not working in bootcamp. Below is my setup: i7, 16GB RAM Radeon RX Vega 56 LG 27ud88 monitor I am connected to my monitor via thunderbolt (far left, next to HDMI) and have a thunderbolt to the (far right, next to ethernet port). Windows recognized the egpu when I connected after setup and installed drivers. It displays as RX Vega 56 but states error 12. I attempted to disable a couple of PCI express controllers to free up resources but it did not work.
Controllers 1901 and 1905. @ Thanks you for the test. If it stay around 85° during real daily task it's somehow fine. My only concern as shown, is when one get the max out it, like when benching with prime or rendering very hard with the cpu. So if intensive and general daily usage the t° hover around 85°, it's not optimal but acceptable if the cpu keep decent clocks over all cores.
Trying to get some fan control and helping the airflow just put you in a good position, if using the rig maxed out or during long heavy loads. I mean it depend the usage case, but if interested about heavy loads, trying to get a good compromise between t°/noise/perf would be the best imo. This is still a small form factor machine powered by a quite strong 6 cores cpu, the heat output could be significant depending the TDP. I mean only few simple small changed would have increased drastically the thermal design in my opinion. Thinking a bit about, i would have maybe copied what have been done with the BlackMagic cooling. I would have made the bottom maybe a couple of mm higher, to be able to fit a low rpm 12/14cm slim fan blowing into the whole case, with a cleanable dust filter. Then i would have used the same blower assembly but paid a bit more attention increasing the heatsink surface area on top of the heatpipes, with an aluminium plate covering the vrm.
Something like what the BlackMagic propose on top of the pcb, keeping heat away from the vrm. I would have added a low diffused white led ring around the bottom fan assembly, shining a very diffused light under the case. That would have given a rather pro and distinguished look to the device.
Posted by: wimpzilla You are right, usually it's what it happen. But usually one does not hit the 100° TJMAX of the cpu. With 100° on the cpu and surrounding i would hope the fan is spinning at it's max value. I would not care about noise knowing my logic board is being toasted and let blow the fan at 100% in this case. If the overall implementation can't take it up, a simple TDP adjust is needed to suit the cooling and avoid the cpu hitting TJMAX or TDP.
A cpu should never go over 80/85° full load, otherwise it will toast itself, the surrounding pcb components and the pcb. All the Mac I have had have hit their TJ Max frequently at high load but none have had heat damage. Sitting at around 80-85 won't damage the CPU or board I think in this case. Actually considering the circle on the bottom is only a press fit, a neat part to model would be a 3D printed circle that press fit in and has a mount for like a 120mm fan. Kind of like this: The 120mm fan would screw into those holes and the legs keep it off the table. The round part coming towards the viewer would fit into the mini's provision for its circle base.
This is like a mockup I made in like a minute, it would obviously look a lot nicer in the end. Provision maybe for a filter etc. But you get the idea.
It would get a lot of air into that case. I simply give what the good practices are, then it's up to the user to decide how dispose of it's own stuff. And in this case it's true the heat will not damage directly and on short term the components. From an engineering side as said above, the pcb layout was designed with this in mind. Aside the loose vrm layout to allow better pcb passive cooling, you will notice that there are no active components direcly around the cpu. All the capacitors and t° sensitive components are placed around the cpu within a safe zone distance. Nevertheless having high general t° is not optimal component life wise, that's all.
I'll have to see if I can get ThrottleStop working (it simply wouldn't install, missing DLLs, etc) and check if that works with the 8700B since XTU does not support it. Since the CPU performance is pretty great anyway (I mean during a Division run, it barely hits 50% on 1 core) and I mostly need GFX performance @ 3440.1440, not CPU, the other idea would be to try to restrict the CPU turbo ramping to 4Ghz+. Sure, I'd be missing out on performance, but if it helps everything run cooler, I'd be happy enough with that for now - since the CPU is more than capable for my uses.
The Massive TM is the perfect cooling pad The Massive TM by Thermaltake is a desktop-style cooling pad that's ideal for any size Mac laptop, from the 12-inch MacBook to the 15-inch MacBook Pro (and 17-inch notebooks, too), thanks to adjustable sizers that keep your device in place. It has two separate fans that draw cool air in from the bottom and push warm air out through the sides.
Closeout Cpu Cooling Fans Fit For Machines
You can set up automatic cooling with four separate heat sensors, or you can regulate the temperature manually, including giving it a turbo cooling boost. It also sports retractable feet, so you can adjust the angle of your laptop. Reasons not to buy.
Pricier than most. Portability limitations What makes the Massive TM the best I've been using my Massive TM for a while now and I've really been putting it through its paces. The one thing that makes it stand out from other cooling pads is its ability to track how warm my MacBook Pro is getting and then allow me to turbo boost the cooling process if things get out of hand. The pad is large — maybe even a little too large.
It's big enough to fit a 17-inch notebook, so my 13-inch MacBook Pro has plenty of space. The aluminum panel on top has four adjustable posts that you can slide around to fit your laptop.
This keeps my MacBook Pro snugly in place without anchoring it on the cooling pad. The pegs are also spring-loaded, so if you accidentally set your notebook on top of one, it just flattens out instead of making your keyboard crooked. When you set your laptop on the cooling pad, it senses the temperature. There are four sensor probes, so you can isolate any problem areas. When the fans are running, it'll cool your device by as much as 20 degrees.
If you notice that, even with the regular fans running, your laptop isn't cooling down (like, if you're working extra hard with a particularly heavy processing program) you can hit the Turbo button and it will speed up the fans and send a burst of air upward. Probably my favorite aspect of the Massive TM is the temperature display panel. When the fans are running, they are relatively quiet as far as cooling fans go. I'm not saying they are whisper quiet, but you won't have to turn up the volume on your computer when they are running.
There are also retractable feet at the bottom of the pad, which allow you to adjust the angle that your laptop sits. The feet themselves have adjustable height, too. So, if you need a sharper angle, like to watch a movie, you can really get some tilt. The fan is powered by a USB cable. It comes with a very short (I think it's about 8-inches) USB-to-USB cable.
If you have the 2016 or later MacBook Pro, you'll need a USB A to USB C adapter, or at least a really long USB to USB cable so you can plug it into a power outlet. Probably my favorite aspect of the Massive TM is the temperature display panel. You always know whether your laptop is running hot, thanks to the LED display. If you're in the middle of a game and notice that your MacBook Pro is running at about 85 degrees, you can turn on the fans and cool it down. Alternatives to the Massive TM If the Massive TM doesn't quite fit your style or meet your needs, there are a couple other high-quality cooling pads you should check out instead. The Havit's minimalist design makes it ideal for travel with your MacBook Pro.
It's ultra-slim, but can still handle laptops up to 17 inches. It also comes equipped with additional USB ports so you can use it as a portable hub.
Bottom line With all of its convenient features, the is easily the best cooler/cooling pad for your MacBook Pro. If you're in the market for one, the Massive TM should be your first consideration, since it's effective, ergonomic, and does it's job well. Credits — The team that worked on this guide.
More details on what is eligible with ShippingPass: Shipping Speed Items & Addresses FREE 2-day shipping. Items sold by Walmart.com that are marked eligible on the product and checkout page with the logo. Nearly all addresses in the continental U.S., except those marked as ineligible below. FREE value shipping. Select items that are not included in ShippingPass will ship for free but with value shipping. Look for items sold by Walmart.com and marked with FREE shipping.
You will also see this noted in checkout. Addresses in the following State Codes AK, HI, AE, AP, AA, PR, GU, MP, PW, AS, VI, FM and APO/FPO addresses with U.S. ZIP Codes will ship for free with value shipping. You will see this noted in checkout. Ineligible items & addresses.
Items with freight charges. Items fulfilled by Walmart.com Marketplace sellers. Personalized items.
eGift Cards. Any item that is not marked eligible on the product page or in checkout. International destinations SHIPPING & RETURNS. What does 2-day shipping really mean?.
Your product will be shipped to its final destination to arrive in 2 business days or faster. If your order is placed before the 11 a.m. PST cutoff time, then it will ship that day and arrive 2 business days later. If your order is placed after the 11 a.m.
PST cutoff time, we will do our best to process it the same day but may need an extra day. Place your order BEFORE 11 a.m. PST cutoff: Monday Tuesday Wednesday Order before 11 a.m. PST, and your order is picked, packed and sent out Your order is on its way to you Your order is delivered Place your order AFTER 11 a.m. PST Cutoff: Monday Tuesday Wednesday Thursday Order placed after 11 a.m. PST is received Your order is picked, packed and sent out Your order is on its way to you Your order is delivered.
ShippingPass Want to get your items fast without the pricey shipping fees? With ShippingPass from Walmart, you can enjoy Every Day Low Prices with the convenience of fast, FREE shipping. Whether you need a gift in a pinch or you're simply running low on household essentials, a ShippingPass subscription gets you the things you need without hurting your pocket. When you purchase ShippingPass you don't have to worry about minimum order requirements or shipping distance. No matter how small the order or how far it needs to go, ShippingPass provides unlimited nationwide shipping.
If you need to return or exchange an item you can send it back at no cost or take it to your neighborhood store. To see if ShippingPass is right for you, try a 30-day free trial.
Also, with ShippingPass, there is no need to worry about commitment. If you decide you want to discontinue the service, you can cancel your subscription at any time. No matter what your shipping needs, Walmart's got you covered. Sign up for ShippingPass so you can shop more, save money and live better.
If your Mac is overheating perhaps you have a dead fan or sensor. Run a Hardware Test The 13' isn't a 3D gamers machine, it will overheat the pitiful CPU graphics it has. Via 8237 raid drivers for mac. Yes, the cooling pad does assist in keeping the machine cooler according to others who have posted here have said, however it's not as good as there isn't any vents to increase air flow.
Keep the machine in a cool sub 75ºF enviroment if gaming. Know that the higher the fans go, the more dust it inhales and collects at the back grill behind the fans.
If your out of warranty/AppleCare (or if in it) see about getting those cleaned to increase air flow. Ideally a Windows 7 3D gaming tower is a better machine, as you can clean it, upgrade the video card and there are more games.
However a Ps3 makes a decent cheaper alternative and it doubles as a Netflix, YouTube etc on the HDTV. My Macbook Pro has the same problem too. I'm using Intel Core i7 2.8 GHz Dual-core, Intel HD Graphics 3000 384 MB, and 6 GB RAM. When I play any 3D games like GTA SA, GTA 4, Minecraft, Battlefield, the fan just going very loud and fast so it's pretty annoying.
To solve this problem: -Make sure you turned off your Macbook Pro and not connected with the charger -Open your Macbook Pro's casing (underneath your Macbook Pro) -Clean all of the parts with cloth -Buy a laptop cooler (make sure it's fit, not to small and not too big) -Put your Macbook Pro on the cooling pad and make sure the casing is opened NOTE:- Don't put anything heavy on your Macbook Pro to prevent the damage of the hardware because of the pressure. If it's doesn't help, put two DC cooling fan for PC behind your Macbook Pro. Use your Macbook Pro inside the room that has temperature below 26 degrees Celcius.
I'm using this cooling pad. It's quite cheap though. It costs about $8 Here's the link: To buy it: You can buy another models too. People have said if you use the little 13' macbook for 3D graphics it will over heat. This is false as it heats up the CPU will lower its speed to keep from overheating this will be the same in any system you buy. If the CPU is getting to hot it will slow down to keep from over heating.
A cooling pad will help remove some of the heat this would help keep the system cooler so that the CPU can run faster and give you better performance. Bare in mind that during intense usage my mac can reach 200F but thats temporary fans spin up and balances around 180F In Conclusion a fan will work but it effectiveness will be very and be minimal just raising you mac a half inch or so off your table to give it some circulation would give similar effect fan might be slightly better but not much.
This is only if you are constantly maxing cpu and running hot it will help lower temp slightly to keep cpu from clocking back as much. I don't do gaming-mostly design and development, but did have a heat issue.
This is mainly from running the Apple Thunderbolt Display (no major heat issues when doing the same things without an external monitor) with my 15' MBP. Presumably, as a result of this, the logic board, WiFi card, and optical drive have all needed replacement (thankfully under AppleCare). To deal with it, I have an improvised solution-using a Kootek Laptop Cooling Pad, and an AC Infinity 80mm fan resting on the top of machine when docked. Although warm, it's no longer unbearably hot, and the internal fan doesn't kick up to its highest setting any more. To answer others posts-I did check the ports and internal fan, and those appear to be in proper order. It's a standard MO for MacBook Pros to run hot, just a question of how much of a gamble a user wants to take on shortening component life.
Apple Footer. This site contains user submitted content, comments and opinions and is for informational purposes only. Apple may provide or recommend responses as a possible solution based on the information provided; every potential issue may involve several factors not detailed in the conversations captured in an electronic forum and Apple can therefore provide no guarantee as to the efficacy of any proposed solutions on the community forums. Apple disclaims any and all liability for the acts, omissions and conduct of any third parties in connection with or related to your use of the site.
All postings and use of the content on this site are subject to the.
Comments are closed.
|
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |